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Hello It sounds like the iron is still working properly as far as generating a predictable amount of heat. The stop step dial can wear out which happens rarely but this shouldn’t affect the temperature. Be careful though that your fingers don’t brush the dial during use and change the temperature if the stop step dial wore out somehow. Thank you

You really need a table or some kind of bench or support system so when you press the structure in, the ski doesn't flex a ton making the process ineffective.

It adds durability. This is a product that we have not offered for I guess 6-7 years now - FYI. Thanks

should I spread the wax initially with the cork on my snowboard and then once its all evenly spread brush it with nylon/horse hair@@TokoUSVideos

@@bombrman1994 This was the most common JetStream Bloc application from the past when we had it and people were using it. I'd recommend following this and leaving the rotocork out of it as this is a far more advanced technique and it also sounds like you don't have a rotocork. ua-cam.com/video/bn5LODmXBqk/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared

Yes the big one in the bottom middle. The bottom is heat resistant too.

The wax comes out of the skin when you ski (through friction between the skin and the snow). Normally I would recommend rewaxing the skin each time you ski so the water can't get in them and the skins perform how you want. If you can't hot wax, I'd recommend using ECO Skin Proof spray. Have a great trip to Norway!

This is something that most ski waxing irons have which is a slightly concave base which is designed to minimize the potential for a vacuum to form between the base and the iron making it more likely to overheat or damage the base through hot waxing.

That is correct. Normally for classic a more linear structure is optimal. That said these structures have been very successful overall. Thanks

Jr race skis have what looks like a relatively aggressive "warm" structure. Any advantage to adding structure over that or would that just create a mess?

@@edd6224 It depends completely on how wet conditions are. Very commonly if conditions are very wet, it is productive to have overlapping structures such that you have a macrostructure with a finer overlapping microstructure over it. For that reason running something like red over a factory linear grind can be quite effective in wetter conditions. In general though for snow that is not consistently wet, I find the factory grinds to be too aggressive in many cases.

@@TokoUSVideos Thanks for replying. Unrelated but is the racing wax remover world cup a full on wax remover or more of a top coat glide wax cleaner? I already spent the $40 and it was a bit stronger then I expected. To be fair I have never used what some call "glide cleaner" so I have no comparison.

@@edd6224 It is intended to be used for cleaning the gliding surfaces of racing skis (including removing topcoats) and is not a grip wax or klister remover. It can be used for that, but the regular wax remover works better for that purpose and is less expensive.

Thank you for the feedback!

In general, Copper for all around (first brush after scraping hot wax regardless of what hardness the wax is). Then horsehair for cold waxes. Nylon or in my opinion even better Nylon Polishing for warmer waxes such as red or yellow. This is because the nylon polishing is fine enough to expose the structure but soft enough to leave a very fine sheen of wax on the surface which is not a bad thing in the red and yellow conditions. Thanks

Thanks!

The T18 is a true professional world cup type iron. These types of irons have smooth surfaces as these technicians tend to work more with powders.

@@TokoUSVideos thanks, so suction is not so much as issue with world cup techs as it would be with a more casual tech? i consider myself very experienced and quite good, but just waxing for my family of 4, one of which is on the US snowboard team and competes in all events, halfpipe specialty, but races in banked slaloms and needs to always be fast, even in slope & park. looking to replace my t14 which is not holding heat after several years of use. (sent you an email) wondering if another t14 is the way to go or upgrade?

@@licmtk When hot waxing, suction can be an issue for anybody but as I just explained when working with powders the structure on the base as not as good as a flat base. World cup techs work a lot with powders. For that reason the T18 does not have structure on the base. I did get your email. It is May and I was on vacation. I will answer you soon. No hurry in May I think! Normally I answer same day but I was out of the country and now catching up and it's May...thanks

@@TokoUSVideos thank you. no worries. love your videos and find them very helpful. I see your response. many thanks! the t14 has been a great iron for me.

They come with an 80mm file. These file guides open to accommodate basically any file out there including 8 inch files or diamond stones. The TokoUS.com website says “including World Cup universal file 80mm”. Thanks

As a general rule, you want the wax that you are using to match the conditions. That said in colder conditions, such as what you would use blue wax in is not so critical because there is no water in the snow to penetrate the skin and freeze it. So the most common practice is to use either red or yellow, depending on how much free moisture is in the snow.

@@TokoUSVideos Great. Sounds like red is a pretty good go to wax. Thanks

@@TokoUSVideos Follow up. Ironed regular red wax today on the skins and they worked great.

Glad to hear it! Thanks!

Hello Michael, these tools are specifally designed for Nordic. They are too narrow to fit on an Alpine ski. Thanks

Yes, they both do

@@TokoUSVideos awesome thanks! If I bought one diamond stone would you suggest the medium or?

@@cragginshred sure I’d say if just one medium

Hello, yes you can use the same file. The direction in the Multi Base Angle shouldn't be completely sideways but one direction gets more friction than the other, more bite. That's the direction that you want. Does that make sense? It's not exactly parallel with the pattern of the file but a little off such that one direction bites more than the other. The directional marking on the file tells you this. Thanks

@@TokoUSVideos Makes sense :D Thank you very much for your answer.

Jan, it sounds like you are not scraping and brushing your ski bases adequately. That said, you can clean the cylinder with a brush (copper for example but nylon works too).

Jan, it sounds like you are not scraping and brushing your ski bases adequately. That said, you can clean the cylinder with a brush (copper for example but nylon works too).

@@TokoUSVideos is very hard almost impossible to get rid off the wax from the cylinder with a brush. I was thinking to use some chemicals or heat :-)

@@Hovnik copper brush works quickly and easily. However the tool shouldn’t be used on a base that hasn’t been scraped and brushed out properly (thoroughly). There shouldn’t be wax on the base in the first place

I’m sorry, but I think I don’t understand the question. Do you mean the bottom half of the ski as in the part that is touching the snow?

@@TokoUSVideos Hi, wow, thanks for the reply! I meant around 2'40", the wax only went up till 1/3 length of the ski on the base. Is that just to keep it short for demo or serves a specific purpose not to go all the way?

@@TokoUSVideos For the timestamp, 3'10", we also only brushed the bottom half of the ski length.

@@yuzhang2578 it was just for demo purposes. Wax the whole base.

Yes it sharpens the edge, flat, and without a burr

The structure lasts similarly to any pressed-in structure. If you hot wax after, the structure will be reduced. You can apply hand structure over a stonegrind. This is a common practice yes.

Actually as a brand and I personally do not recommend hot scraping. This video was done with Willi and he is renowned, but hot scraping eradicates base structure (expensive and effective stonegrinds). I imagine Willi was hot scraping it and then grinding it.

It's a great tool actually, but thanks for your comment. I remember you trying to sell me your tool a few years ago.

No but we have a boot pack for that

Up to 50mm

No sorry, we are Toko US. Canada has it's own Toko representation and organization that is unrelated to us. To my knowledge there are no wax tips for Canadian events.

Hi. The best way to prevent this is to spray Toko Skin Proof on the top sheet of the ski when it is dry and ideally a day before going out skiing. (What I find the best practice for this is to return from skiing, wipe your top sheets clean, and then spray the skin proof on and let it dry. Then don't touch it until you go out skiing again no matter how long it is). Thanks for the question

The 3 season glove is identical to the glove when it was called the rollerski glove. The only change is the name (3 seasons meaning spring, summer, and fall). "Cross" meaning cyclocross. We work with a number of cyclocross athletes and they really love that glove (and others). The glove hasn't changed though. Thanks for your interest.

Hello Hossein, this tool hits a price point that is very attractive as it does both base and side edges in one tool. If you are looking for a high precision tool, of course we have better options. It shouldn't wobble along the ski though at all unless you are making the tool wobble. Clearly though a fixed angle side angle guide is a better option (and more expensive and more restrictive - this tool offers different options for angles for both side and edge). You are comparing apples and oranges. but yes there are better tools out there at a higher price point that offer less flexibility.

The structure that this tool applies to the ski base is very different from that of a stonegrind. A stonegrind is cut into the base and when it is done base material is removed which is why it can be done only so many times. This tool presses the structure into the base. After ironing and scraping a few times the blue structure will be completely gone and the red or yellow strutures greatly reduced or almost gone depending). In short these are temporary structures and can be applied many times. They should be applied in the ski preparation process after the iron is no longer being used. For example after you hot wax your skis, scrape, apply structure, and brush. If you are applying liquid paraffin, apply structure after hot wax scraping and before liquid paraffin application. Thanks

Yes it is, thanks

You are correct. Same name and similar packaging. The old had fluorine and the new does not. The difference is that the new (this years) has a large “fluoro free” logo in it. Thanks!

He was recommending spraying it on the Thermo Pad and then applying it on the bases with the Thermo Pad. For sure brush it out with a nylon polishing brush yes